France / Soup
Potage Parmentier
There are few things more versatile or more satisfying than potage parmentier (leek and potato soup) or one of its myriad variations. It’s good freshly-made and better the next day. Hot or cold, it makes a lovely start to dinner; served with some left-over meat, a great lunch. It's a great mid-afternoon pick-me-up, either straight out of the fridge or zapped in the microwave. As delicious as is basic leek-and-potato soup, you can also include other vegetables or herbs, such as broccoli stems, asparagus stalks, a large handful of parsley or cress, etc—the variations are endless. This is one of the classic ways the French utilize left-over or less-than-perfect vegetables bought cheap from the market, a principle of both taste and economy that all would do well to adopt. You shouldn't be a stickler about using leeks, either—while they have a more subtle flavor than onions, they can be expensive and/or difficult to source out of season. Feel free to use regular onions (the milder yellow/Spanish varieties are best) or use a couple of bunches of scallions (spring onions). The only rub comes when it’s time to purée the soup. While it can be done in a blender, it’s much better to use…
Ingredients
- leeks or onions, about 1 lb / 450 g; sliced3–4 cup
- floury potatoes, 700–900 g / 2 lb; e.g. Idaho, Maris Piper; peeled, thickly sliced3–4 cup
- water, 2 L2 quart
- table salt or sea/rock salt, table salt; or 1 tbsp sea/rock salt2 tbsp
- white pepper, freshly ground; to taste
- heavy cream, double cream4–6 tbsp
- vegetables, up to 450 g / 1 lb; optional; thinly sliced1–2 cup
- flat-leaf parsley or watercress, optional; roughly chopped1–2 handful
Quantities are auto-calculated from the original recipe as a guide. Items without numbers (e.g. “to taste”) are not changed.
Method 5 steps
If using leeks, remove the roots and dark green leaves; wash twice as long as you think necessary to remove the grit.
Place the vegetables, water and salt in a pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and gently simmer (partially covered) for 45–50 minutes. The soup is done when you can easily mash the vegetables against the side of the pot.
Puree the soup using a food mill fitted with the fine disc. Optionally, pulse it in a blender just until smooth and pass through a fine sieve.
Chill the soup if it is to be served cold, or gently reheat it to a simmer. Refrigerate any left-overs. It will keep for days if refrigerated in a covered container as soon as it cools.
Add 1½–2 tsp cream (or whole milk) per portion just before serving. You’ll need more cream if you’re serving the soup hot or if it’s a bit watery; the idea is to create a smooth, silky puree, but you don’t want the taste or mouth feel of the cream to predominate. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.
